Friday, September 24, 2010

Yellowstone Park

September 21- 22: We saw lots of horses and black angus cows in Montana. The drive down highway 89 was gorgeous. We saw antelope and fenced bison. I guess you would call them farm raised. Saw a few hawks, red tail and rough legged hawk. The road went alongside the Yellowstone River It is the longest free flowing river in the US. We followed it right into Yellowstone National Park. Of course, we had to drive through the Teddy Roosevelt stone archway. The park seems to be run by concessionaires. They are very efficient, but not as happy and cheerful as volunteers or seasonal rangers. We got in on my Golden Age Passport Card, this is a wonderful card.


Stopped at Mammoth Hot Springs, and then headed for the only campground that wasn’t full and would take reservations. Stopped along the way for a close up encounter with a few bison. They walked down and into the turnout where we were parked. They went by Escape To not two feet from my window.
When we got to our campground, it was a disappointment. No picnic table, no fire pit, no electric, and water pressure that spiked to 100PSI. You needed a pressure reducer to connect to the water. The worst part of all was the no generators until 8AM rule. Therefore, no coffee till then.

Next morning we had our coffee at 8AM and went to look at the next campground. If it had been the same we were leaving the park. It was actually quite nice with fire ring and trees that separated the sites.

Yellowstone Lake by our campsite
Went to Old Faithful and spent most of the day in that area. We saw Old Faithful erupt, as well as numerous geysers and some beautiful boiling pools. It is a very strange landscape, but very intriguing.
Old Faithful

Even Yellowstone Lake has some thermal activity. This activity causes some open areas in the ice during the winter. The otters take advantage of these holes. I felt very rough after dinner and went to bed a 8 PM. I guess it,s too much vacation or too much hiking in this altitude. We plan to go on to Grand Tetons and Jackson WY tomorrow. Time is getting tight.

Back in USA

September 20: It started out raining so we did not linger. We just kept driving and crossed the border with no problems. Took about 2 minutes, only questions were where are you from and how long have you been in Canada. The first question seems strange as they have our passports in their hands. Observation: Canadian customs agents are very friendly and pleasant. US customs officials are not warm and fuzzy but very business like and curt.


The day cleared up after crossing the border. Now we understand the slogan “big sky country” for Montana. They were cutting wheat and bailing hay, a pretty picture with these huge gorgeous blue skies. We are camping in Lewis and Clark National Forest. Typical NFS campground. Edna met a couple from Helena and their cat Spot. He is a seasoned camper and has been all over the country, including Virginia. It feels good to be back in the lower forty-eight.






Tomorrow we should be in Yellowstone National Park.

End of the Alcan Highway

September 19: Left the campground late as we were working on the blog and making postcards for the grandchildren to mail from Canada. It rained all day and we drove all day.


We did see a Swainson Hauk and lots for flocks of geese overhead as we drove thru Canadian horse country. We drove by a town that was hosting Alberta Provincial Horse Trials. I didn’t stop as it was raining very hard.

Every town has a large RV dealership that are well stocked and a rodeo. Seems everybody has and RV or horse or both. Stopped at Park Lake Provincial Park for the evening which had a nice lake, and as it stopped raining we walked to the lake and took a few pictures.

September 18: Today was mostly driving. Drove by bison, elk, horse, lama and alpaca farms along the road. Stopped at Dawson Creek at mile post monument 0 on the Alaskan Highway and said goodbye to the Alcan. Stopped to photo Beaverlodge big beaver. We had lunch at Williamson Provincial Park beside Sturgeon Lake. Saw some ducks and geese on the lake.


As we got closer to Edmonton we realized that commercial campgrounds were few and far between. We wanted wifi and to wash cloths tonight. Ended up a Glowing Embers near the Edmonton Mall (largest in the world), it was very nice and professional. The laundry was the most reasonable we have used to date.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Canada gong south


September 16: Up and off at a decent time for us, about 9:30 AM. Stopped at Watson Lake and what a friendly visitor center, the best yet. They had a great movie explaining about the origin and building of the Alaskan Highway. Both the politics and history and we learned a lot. The signpost forest is just outside the information center. In 1942 it started with a lonely soldier putting up a sign for his hometown and today it has 71,000 signs. Now 70,001 as we put up our sign that we made before we left on this trip.

Adding our sign

The lady at the visitor told us that the stretch of the Alaskan Highway from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson was the prettiest on the highway. We now agree. The road followed the Liard River to the Hot Springs. We stopped, but could only walk part of trail as they were having bear problems.

Hot Springs


We had been told to watch for bison by the visitor center and sure enough, we saw one then another and another down the road.  Finally, we ran into a whole herd!  They were fun to watch and one was dusting just like our horses do at home.



Dusting like our horses
Decided to drive a little later than usual and we were rewarded with lots of animals. Our goal had been to reach Summit Lake Campground, but it got dark and we had to stop. Found a “former provincial park at 115 creek” We read about it in Churches Alaska Camping. It was not marked but the pull off was just after crossing the bridge.
September 17: Woke up to freezing temperatures, frozen puddles and frost on the windshield. We walked to a beaver pond by the campsite. It’s such a pretty spot that I understand why people still camp here. It’s a good thing we did not make Summit Lake. When we drove by, it was closed. This was an early start day and we were rewarded with sightings of Stone Sheep, lots of caribou, elk and deer. The drive was gorgeous. We went up and around Stone Mountain with the Northern Rockies on one side and the Stone Mountain Range on the other. That is where we met the stone sheep.





Stone Sheep

Note frost on side of pond
 We were making good time toward Fort St John s following a fifth wheel in front of us. Edna smelled smoke and I pulled over. Got out and walked around and popped the hood- nothing. Got back in the motor home and drive off again. No smell. A little ways down the road is the 5th wheel off to the side of the road. He has the hood of his truck up and a fire extinguisher in his hand. Edna says pull over and I get out and go back to him. The fire extinguisher was used to put out the fire in his alternator. Belt is also melted. Of coarse we are near nothing. We take the man, his son and dog into Fort Nelson 35 miles away. Stop at the GMC dealer and they only have a belt for his truck, but no alternator. The truck is a 1992 model. NAPA is closed and he tries Canada Tire and they have the alternator. What luck, and we then take him back to his truck. It’s getting late and not a lot of daylight left as we head down the road again towards Fort St. John where we plan to drive to a provincial campground the other side of town. We didn’t make it as it got really dark and the road was mountainous. So, we pulled over into a trucker “chain up area”. Not as nice as a rest area because you are right on the road, and hear the trucks downshifting all night as they started down the mountain. By morning, we had a 5th wheel behind us and an 18 wheeler also. It was even colder than the previous night.
Sonw from previous day still on platform

Yukon

September 15: Last night we worked late on getting journals and blog caught up. Thus, we got a late start this morning. Had to get gas and go to the Supercenter Store for groceries and to get cash back at the checkout. Good groceries and wonderful bread., but only 2 checkers so we had a half hour wait in line only to find out that you cannot get cash back on a visa debit card in Canada. It has something to do with the banking regulations. We then went to Walmart (not a super center) and the customer service lady told me to buy something and then come to her for a refund in Canadian money and then pay for the items with US money and she could give me the change in Canadian.


This is a drive day as will be the next several until we get out of Canada. Realized we are running out of time if we want to be home by October 3rd. and still go to Yellowstone and thru Denver. Stopped for the evening at Big Creek Campground in the Yukon and again nice sites and free firewood.. Only 2 other campers here, we camped by the river. Most campgrounds have some form of water, stream, pond or lake. If not that, then a great view.

Looking down the highway

River by campsite

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Going South

September 13: It was 32 degrees when we got up. Posted our blog , sent e-mails and then headed across the border. Crossing the border was uneventful. The cars in front of us as well as the one behind were pulled over for inspection. Everything comes out on the ground. We just don’t look like the hunting type. Of course Edna says when they ask me about game or fish and I reply I have some reindeer sausage I bought at Sam’s, they know they have a kook and should just get rid of him. I also answered the do you have any alcohol question with “a case of Alaskan Stout”.


Most of the fall colors are gone here. We took our time stopping for pictures and wildlife. Saw a couple of moose and many swans and ducks. Lot’s of bad road and little red flags! The dips and bumps are from frost heaves. They can’t seem to find a way to maintain the road with permafrost conditions. Canada has addressed the issue by using red flags and a one man road crew with shovel and truck to fill potholes..

Beautiful snow covered mountains. Stopped again at Congdom Lake Campgrounds, a provincial park. Not many campers so we got a campsite on the lake. They have covered wood piles and provide free fire wood. We had a great campfire with Will’s favorite meal. However we changed his menu slightly by adding reindeer sausage cut to fit into hot dog buns. Views of Kluane Lake, snow capped mountains and free firewood all in one campsite, how can you top that? Cost $12.00.  Edna saw birds at our campsite and is working on identification.
view from campsite


September 14: Stopped at a scenic overlook for an autumn colors picture, same place we stopped going north.

Stopped at Sheep Mountain. Visitors center was closed, but there were sheep on the mountain. They winter and lamb here, then leave for the summer. They are Dall Sheep.



Next stop was an old historic bridge, built by Sam McGee, the original Canyon Creek Bridge. There was a sign that indicated “the building was under renovation and is not safe”. It was not until after we walked across and saw the same sign on that side that I said “ I don’t see any building” that we realized it meant the bridge we just walked across. We hurried back across.
river bridge is over
We stopped for lunch at Pine Lake Recreational Park. There was a nice spot on the lake that had our name on it. Nice campground, but too early to stop. More nice scenery and then we were in Whitehorse the capital of the Yukon. Tonight we are staying at the High Country RV Park. We have full hook-ups and wifi on site.